Rotterdam - Hamburg - Berlin
Latest update of this page on 25 July 2009
Under construction ( sorry for procrastination but I have had to delete my 2006 tour to be able to finish this journal)
Overview Maps
This has been plotted using Microsoft AutoRoute -- which is why there are so many numbers on it. The link below gives you turn by turn detail of my route.
1. Route from Rotterdam to Hamburg and Berlin
This is my route from Rotterdam Europort all the way to Berlin. The link below shows the detailed route to Berlin and the bit going bacl home too!
http://www.bikely.com/maps/bike-path/Rotterdam-to-Berlin Please note if you are using IE8 you may have to hit the "Compatibility" button to see the route
You can zoom in to see every turn by turn of the route I actually took. It might not be totally accurate in areas where I got a bit lost but otherwise it is good representation of the roads I followed. In places the route taken doesn't show up as a road/track on the map but is the actual way that I went! The long straight line from Berlin to Rotterdam is a train journey!!
The mileage ( kilometreage?) shown is different to that as shown in my journal. That is inevitable since my actual daily distance included end of travelling day cycling and wanders around during the travelling day!
2, Introduction. I must say that as I finished my preparations for my 2009 tour that I was beset with apprehension. I was dreadfully unfit and overweight after a long winter where I had gone through a bit of a trauma with the "cancer scare". So I set off with a lot of worry as to how I would perform.
Well the end result is that I actually cycled all the way from Rotterdam Europort to Berlin! I did better than I expected but not as well as I had hoped.
One other thing. The camera I took this year simply ate batteries and explains the shortfall in the number of interesting pictures taken. In addition most of the photos I took in Berlin are useless since the camera switched into a micro setting which I didn't notice. Bah!
So here is my journal!
DD = Daily Distance, TD = Total distance, Max = Maximum speed, TT = Time taken in Hours and minutes, Av = average speed over the travelling day
3. Wednesday 27 May . Day 1
I left home and made my Dads lunch before setting off to Doncaster to catch a train to Hull. I had help with the lifts at Doncaster station and was safely loaded into a Hull train. I then cycled from Hull station to the King George V Dock and went straight on board. Eventually got into my cabin with the paper key ( it gave me trouble all night!). I was into the restaurant as it opened and enjoyed a G&T and then had a Pinot Grigio with an excellent dinner. I didn't stay up late and was in bed and asleep by 2130!
4. Thursday 28 May. Day 2.
DD 32.77 kms, TD 50.73, Av 10.6 kph, Max 23.6 kph, TT 2hrs :56mins
Up and breakfasted by 0730 and we had docked by 0800 and I was on my way by 0900. I met John (a Welshman from Wakefield), also towing a Carry freedom trailer and we cycled together until we had crossed by ferry to Maassluis. He was heading for Delft and I was just going as far as Hoek van Holland! My traditional short first day to get organised and packed properly.
Tradition says that I always take a picture of my first night camp!
4. Friday 29 May. Day 3 Hoek van Holland to Katwijk
DD 44.22 kms, TD 94.95 kms, Max 27.2 kph, TT 3:45, Av 12.1 kph
Up at 4 am for a pee! Then I slept on till 0710 and got away slowly at 0930. I stopped in Kijduin for a coffee and my first triple flavour ice cream. Had a long chat with a Brit on his way home. Nice sunny morning but the winds are strong and head winds too! I got a bit lost in Scheveningen but the Satnav worked as I hoped and got me back on route very quickly! The route on to Katwijk was on a good path through the dunes and so was a bit bumpy. I am stopped short of Katwijk in a little eater in the dunes-- good food and nice service it is now 1351 hrs and I have done 35 kms so far. The wind is gusty but it is very warm and sunny. Back on the road it continued bumpy but easy riding -- apart from the "racers" doing their thing and swooping by without warning!
Note "ij" in Dutch is pronounced "eye" it took me a couple of days to realise this!
Now 2016 hrs. In Katwijk, Zuid Duinnen Camping. It is expensive -- Euro15 but civilised and clean and the shop didn't overcharge. It is a holiday w/e here -- and Monday is a "bank holiday"
A family just arrived on bikes The lady is using crutches off the bike but the mans bike is a load carrier They are setting up their tent with their 2 little girls ( aged about 2 and 3) "helping" I had a short chat with the man and they had only come about 8 kms. The girls ride in the traditional seats behind the rider but the load carrier is converted by padding to a children carrier when they need to sleep or just rest. It really shows a totally different mind set to live like this! I was so surprised when thy arrived that I was out of order in asking so many questions when they were busy deciding where to set up. -- as I write this there is the usual outbreak of tears and howling and poor old Dad (not really old) is doing 3 jobs at once. Out of nowhere the tent is now set up and I expect in a short time all will be well!
I shall apologise tomorrow morning because I was so impolite when they arrived. The forecast is still very windy but also very warm for tomorrow. The camping is a "Dune" site with hardly any shade so I am creamed up to the eyebrows -- my legs are ok and I am wearing a long sleeved shirt which I can roll up or down . The sun combined with the wind has burned my nose and I am using lip salve to help my lips survive.
On to Velsen Zuid tomorrow. Another short day but I feel so unfit and I just want to run myself in gently and make it all the way to Berlin
The children sat in the blue box The front wheel is steered remotely! It is a 2 wheeled bike!
5. Saturday 30 May. Day 4. Katwijk to Velsen-Zuid
DD 51.58 kms, TD 146.53 kms, Max 26.4 kph, TT 4:26, Av 11.7 kph
Windy but no cloud at all. Away at 0840 hrs. Now in Noordwijk at 0910 having an espresso and refilling my water bottles with a mixture of 7UP and water to make it taste better!
Now 1920 hrs and I am set up in Camping Schoonenberg! It is completely full with holiday makers -- trust me to hit a holiday w/e. It was a fairly stiff day going over the only mountains in Holland! -- well the dunes always seemed to be uphill and together with the racing fraternity -- all you hear is a whirl of wheels and they cut you up! One lot started tinging their bells because they thought I was in their way -- I was but I was overtaking a file of walkers -- about a dozen people. walking on my side of the track. On an upgrade there was no way that I was going to give way going uphill with a loaded trailer is no fun. Fortunately the leader of the pack ( about 20 racers) understood enough English to hear my impolite comments cast over my shoulder " Ping all you like but I am here ahead of you (or rather more strident words conveying similar meaning!). This is the first time I have cycled seriously in Holland . I do find the arrogance that I associate with UK motorists seems to be totally on the other foot here and it is not very pleasant. Of course it is just a minority -- just like in UK -- of drivers but when you are on a cycle track ( even a good one) and 10 pairs of "racers" are hurtling towards you -- occupying 2/3 of the track as people bob in and out -- and I am travelling with a 2 wheeled trailer which they can't see ...................!!!!
I followed a large (30 +) pack of riders after they had sped by me and then they turned left on to an ordinary two way road and occupied the whole width of the road and the cars just let them. I was on the same route as them although I stayed on the cycle track and just a few minutes later I passed them all sitting in a café. What a load of w*nkers! Later I was nearly forced into a ditch as another mob hurtled out of a blind side turning!
So -- I reckon that this bit of the Netherlands shows a different side of the case.
A water stop just South of Velsen-Zuid and I just happened to notice it was mentioned in my book of maps Ruin Brederade at Santpoort
Camping Schoonenberg is a very basic camp and is very overcrowded and now the air is filled with the smell of overcooked and burnt meat, also tainted with the howls of dogs and interrupted by 8 to 15 year old children let loose by over boozed parents. It is inevitable really -- holiday w/e. So UK is not alone in having its problems.
The noise was going to last all night and I was in bed early.
6. Sunday 31 may. Day 5. Velsen-Zuid to Petten.
When I got up this morning I found that the "Sanitaire" was trashed! Absolutley filthy so I didn't get a shower and just has a quick splash, I was packed up and away by 0745! Another hot day in prospect.
DD 58.02 kms, TD 204.55 kms Max 33.5 kph, TT 4 hrs 53 mins Av 12.4 kph
Over the ferry across the Nordsee Kanal -- (for free on Sundays) The route was fairly easy to follow and I only had the odd stops to check. All through the Noord Hollands Duinsreservaat was not as bumpy as yesterday but a couple of long "pulls" had me hot and bothered. Stopped at a pub at Het Woud and had a "Schneewitchen" ( a snowwhite!) -- a Radler, Panuché, shandy -- and got charged 4 Euro !!!!!! for a small glass!
Strong wind all day and it was more than a bit wearing. I had another stop in the middle of "Dune Land" and had a long chat with a couple who where walking. I also missed a turn and finished up by a fish and chip stall in Schoorl -- but followed my nose through Greet and Hargen where I picked up the NSCR again. But the last 5 kms to Petten along a dead straight road with a fierce headwind finished me off . It was dauntingly hard work and I had intended to go about 5 kms beyond Petten to a planned camp site -- but I pulled into the first one I found -- I was chinstrapped!
It was a huge camping site and full of Germans and gangs of rampaging kids but I chose a spot which was reasonably remote and already had a couple of small tents there. I set up and then hearing that there was a market in Petten set off to go there only to find my rear wheel had a puncture -- first one in over 16000 kms! I must have spiked it somewhere as I pushed the velo over the grass and when I replaced the tube I found that the spike had gone through the side wall of the tyre!
I zoomed off to find the market was still going and bought a huge multi flavoured ice cream for 3 Euro! Then went into a Spar to buy food and wine and since I was so weary I made a decision to have a rest day tomorrow!
I was in bed early and slept right through!
7. Monday 1 June. Day 6. Rest day.
DD 15.41 kms. TD 219.96
Up at 0700 and finished pumping up the tyre. The bread shop didn't open until 0830 so I went for a very breezy walk along the top of the dyke. Found my camera batteries were flat! This bl**dy camera eats batteries!
Had b'fast and then washed all my socks, pants and 2 shirts -- and my towel. Then went for a ride in late morning to Sint Martensee -- head on into the wind which was fiercer than ever and wandered around the car boot sale there. Bought strawberries and a couple of melons! My journey back was amazing -- I hardly peddled at all and zoomed long at 30 kph +
Much quieter evening since a lot of folk had gone home!
8. Tuesday 2 June. Day 7. Petten to Den Oever
DD 52.09 kms, TD 272.05 kms, Max 24.9 kph, TT 4:33, Av 11.5 kph
Up at 0510 and away by0630 hrs. It was overcast when I got up but by the time I was on my way the sky was clear again. The wind was still very strong but had shifted a bit from NE to North so during the day I wasn't always battering into a head wind!
In Oudesluis I must have missed a small turning because I found myself on the wrong side of the "Hooge Oude Veer" - like a great wide moat between me and where I ought to be. I stopped and had a peer at my map, expecting to have to go back several kms but, no, there was a bridge/dam/sluis in Kleine Sluis and I was quickly back on track again.
I stopped for breakfast and a rest somewhere as I circumnavigated Amstelmeer ( never did see any Amstel beer though!)
The got slightly off track in a maze of little roads as I headed toward Den Oever and the 30 km dyke crossing the IJsselmeer ( used to be the ZuiderZee when I was at school). I had hoped to make up a day by crossing the Afsluitdijk but since the wind in the afternoon was even stronger I chickened out and decided to stop in Camping "De Geste" a very green, quiet site and so nice after yesterdays camping! It is now 1621 and there are a few wisps of cloud and it is a bit cooler in the swirling wind
I went into the small town and saw the busy harbour.
Curried pork for tea with red wine! Still very unfit and unable to do the needed kms!
9. Wednesday 3 June. Day 8. Den Oever to Harlingen.
DD 48.91 kms, TD 320.96 kms, Max 24.5 kph, TT 4:34, Av 10.8 kph
I had a slow start this morning because the wind was blowing hard when I woke up and I wasn't sure of its direction! That 30 kms of dyke to cross was going to be hard work even if there was no wind! After hesitating a bit I thought "what the hell " and packed up and set off for the start of the Afsluitdijk.
As I approached the dyke I passed a cyclist (4 panniers) who was apparently just finishing the crossing from the other end and I gave a wave as I stopped to prepare myself mentally for the journey. Then the cyclist came along side me -- a Canadian lady -- Sandra --and dressed for rain as was I. She hadn't crossed but was going the same way as was I and she was as relieved as I was to have the chance of company across the dyke..
These two photos c/o Sandra's camera
On the Dyke -- but it doesn't show how fiercely the wind was blowing!
So the hard crossing was made much easier and pleasant by some excellent company. I talked far too much ( as usual). The wind had shifted again and was a NW side wind all the way across and we were protected from if by the high side of the dyke on our left -- except when we crossed the locks at each end of the dyke and we were almost blown off our bikes. -- very unpleasant indeed. We were very much in need of a coffee but the island in the middle ( with a very windswept camping) looked very bleak and we bashed onward to the end. The 31 kms in a straight line would have been 'orrible on my own but with frequent water stops and good company it was fun ( well nearly fun!).
We headed for Zurich, a small village just a couple of kms after the dyke, and stopped for a coffee and food. We ordered what I thought was a ham and cheese omelette which turned out to be 3 fried eggs topping a couple of slices of bread and ham and with a melted cheese slice on top. Haven't had a fried egg in years -- but it went down a treat!
Sandra disappeared off to Spinld (?? Can't read my scribble)) heading for a Bike and Bed and I set off for a camping in Harlingen. It was only about another 9 kms but the wind was now ferocious and at times I was cycling at barely a walking pace.
The camp site at Harlingen "De Zeehoeve" is a big site but fairly empty with .a smallish well mown field for tents where I am set up and everything is clean and well tended. I had a troll around Harlingen which is a fairly normal sort of town centre but with lots of little harbours with real working boats and a large number of "Gin Palaces" there too! My return to the camping was pedal free since I was blown back at over 30 kph!
A German couple turned up with a 16 month old baby in the trailer. But he seemed happy with his lot but I suspect that he sleeps most of the travelling day so how does he manage at night. They are going out to the islands after spending a "Ruhr" tag here tomorrow. They had a glass of wine with me and a can of beer!
10. Thursday 4 June. Day 9. Harlingen to Holwerd.
DD 54. 37 kms, TD 375.33 kms, Max 24.7 kph, TT 4:09, Av 13.3 kph
I woke up late at 0720 so I shall be late away. The wind dropped during the night and there was some rain -- but the North wind is back again now and just as hard.
1756 hrs. As I was setting off I found my rear tyre was a bit soft -- pumped it up and set off. I checked it a few times during the day and it now seems OK! When I next stop for a rest day I will have the tube out and check the tyre for any offending object! So off I went on a cold windy day. Most of the day the wind was "behindish" me so although there was the odd rain shower I made good time and I decided to miss out Holwerd. I got slightly lost in Harlingen with all the little waterways but that is where the Satnav is so useful. I just turn it on and can see exactly where I am and get quickly back on route.
Then, out of the blue as I wiped an apparently "runny nose" I found my glove covered in blood! I stopped and used a stack of tissues to try and mop up the bright red ( lots of O2 in it) blood finally stuffing my left nostril to help form a clot. The trouble is taking aspirin daily means I am slow to clot up. I sat in the edge of a small factory for about half an hour till I felt confident enough that I had dried up. So I cycled on with a wad of tissue up my nose!
So I stopped in Holwerd after all. It is a nice green and well cared for site right alongside the church. Not many people here. I did a bit of shopping in the local Co-op, set the supper on the stove and then had my usual evening shower.
Camping
"De Dobbe"
Oh I forgot! I stopped in Sint Jacobiparochie at midday when I found a mobile fish shop and had 2 different pieces of fish cooked for me, which were quite delicious, with my morning brotchen!
11. Friday 5 June. Day 10. Holwerd to Pieterburen.
DD 60.17 kms, TD 435.5 kms, Max 25.6 kph, TT 4:24, Av 13.8 kph
1105 I have stopped for a coffee and a toastie in Moddergat.
It rained for most of the night but was fine when I woke up at 0720. The church clock rang every half hour and struck the hours --- all night! I heard every one since the church tower is only about 50 metres away! The tent was packed away wet but that isn't unusual although I have been dry packing so far on this trip.
I got away at 0930 hrs after pumping up my tyre again.
Just had a coffee and toastie. It was Euro 3 -- best value in a cafe so far!
Taken as I went round on the dyke at Lauwersmeer
1914. I have had my supper. In Pieterburen as planned. Camping Boet 'n Toen is run by volunteers and is fairly basic in terms of the pitches, consisting of two very large fields. I was made very welcome by several ladies and shown around the area --- lots of facilities not normal in campsite, I was given a chair and there was a mobile home specifically for "tenters" with books , electricity, a kettle, fridge and microwave.
The town had only 1 shop which was organic -- so a tad expensive but OK. Todays travelling was the best so far. The endless wind was mainly in the right direction so no hard work today. I am now sitting in the evening light looking at a magnificent tree which must be all of 40 metres tall.
It has been a good day
I do recommend this site. The volunteers take people "Mud Walking" out to the islands, which is quite an experience I suspect! So there is nothing superb about the site but everything is just simple and good, There are the traditional Dutch "chalets" for hire and electric hook ups for caravans etc But I was made very welcome and I had a good night sheltered from the wind. Lots of local info too!
12. Saturday 6 June. Day 11. Pieterburen to Appingedam
DD 39.62 kms, TD 475,12 kms, Max 20.6 kph, TT 3:07, Av 12.8 kph
I left at 0815. it was a cold night with frost when I got up for my middle of the night pee!
I abandoned the NSCR being weary of the endless dykes. The trouble is that below the dyke you don't see anything other than innumerable sheep and the dyke! But if you cycle on top of the dyke you are likely to be blown off! And the best surface is on the track below the dyke but interrupted by cattle grids ( NP) and self closing gates ( just a bit of a nuisance) and a sort of "bike stile" ( bl**dy with a trailer!).
I headed for Usquert - and then turned south on the N9988 to Middlestum where I, at last, found an ATM and stoked up my dwindling cash! Then SE on the N996 to Loppersum, where I had a coffee and cheese and ham baguette and then on to Camping Eckenstein. I booked in for two nights but when I asked about the ferry to Defzijl to Emden I was told :-
1. It didn't go to Emden any more but to Knock and Borkum ( that was OK I wanted to go to Knock!)
2. It only ran at w/e's and so there was no ferry on Monday!
The helpful owner of the site rang the information office and confirmed the time of departure next morning which was 8 am. So I am going at crack of dawn tomorrow morning to cycle to 6 kms to the harbour.
I just rang dad. At 102 he is extremely deaf and I am not sure that he understood where I was!
I then showered and had a super meal in the small restaurant as a treat for my last day in the Netherlands.
13. Sunday 7 June. Day 12. Appengedam to Norddeich ( into Deutschland!)
DD 62.64 kms, TD 537.76 kms, Max 23.9 kph, TT 4:47, Av 13.0 kph
I woke up at 0420 and it wasn't raining but was very overcast. So I decided to get up and strike camp before it did ( it is now 1146 hrs and it hasn't rained yet!). I was at the harbour by 0630 and I could see he ferry moored up!
At a hotel/restaurant/bar I got a sneaky recharge of my Satnav while sitting outside ( it was closed of course). After 0730 there was signs of activity on the ferry and I followed 2 other Nederlander cyclists down on to the jetty and boarded just before 8. Because of the state of the tide at Knock, I had to carry the velo and trailer on to the upper deck but I had some help from the crew!. I had a nice breakfast on board and the total passengers were 7 people! 4 going to Borkum and me and the two Nederlanders ( Warner & Rob) getting of at Knock
Warner & Rob were going for a days cycling in German Friesland and coming back to Defzijl that evening on the return trip of the ferry.
We landed at Knock and then R & W led me through some very beautiful villages -- Rysum, Loquard and Campen where we then parted company. These villages were all originally island and in each one the original village was perched on top of its own mountain about 6 metres higher than the surrounding land -- with an original brick built church in the centre!
I then headed for the coast road and the Campener Leuchtturm which is the highest lighthouse in Germany at 65.3 metres! Being Sunday and early it was all closed up and I didn't know whether it was possible to go up it!
Then I followed the coastal route ( below the dyke again!) all the way to Greetsiel -- where I am now having a Radler! Headwinds all the way but not the fierce winds of the last week. I am about 10 kms from the camping at Norddeich and have done a total of 38.93 kms at 12.6 kph so far! it is just starting to rain but not heavy so I am on my way.
Now 1704. I actually got on the internet in the reception for 1/2 an hour which was very kind and much appreciated. There were over 200 emails --- and about 20 real ones! Tea is nearly ready -- not showered yet --- it is about 800 metres away! The supermarket in the camp is a tad expensive but that is normal. Heavy rain and storms are forecast for the next 3 days!!!!
14. Monday 8 June. Day 13. Rest day.
DD 10.82 kms, TD 548.58
72 today! Norddeich is a typical seaside town and it took me ages to find a supermarket. But I bought some nice fresh fish and some rollmops for my birthday tea -- and of course a bottle of Fizz which is in the chiller ( pan with water and a wet cloth over the bottle!). The morning was 'orrible and wet but the sun is out now but with a howling wind. Fortunately I am fairly well sheltered! I am alone on a good tentplatz with another tent in the next field( of 4 fields).
15. Tuesday 9 June. Day 14. Rest day!
A very nasty day where I was marooned in my tent for most of the day. Thank goodness for the tent porch. So I am staying for an extra day. NTR -- just survived -- I finished the book that I bought on the Hull ferry and did lots of crosswords! There was a brief hour of sun in the evening but the wind was still whistling over the tops of the sheltering hedges. My trusty velo didn't move all day -- I didn't move a lot either! Horrible day!
16. Wednesday 10 June. Day 15. Norddeich to Schillig.
DD 76.93 kms, TD 625.51 kms, Max 31.5 kph, TT 4:57, Av 15.5 kph
I woke up at 4 am for my morning watering! It was still blowing a gale and had shifted in the night so I put out all the remaining guys that I hadn't deployed yesterday. Intermittent heavy rain and the wind was gusting a lot! I thought that I might have to stay another day!!!!!!
I got up at 0730 and decided to pack all but the tent. The wind looked to be Westerly which would mean a following wind but the severe gusting worried me. Certainly if I had been travelling with 4 panniers I would have stayed put but the trailer means that my velo is more responsive and easier to correct. So I took the decision and dropped the tent and got away by about 0950. Glad I left because once I turned out of the campingplatz I had a following wind for the rest of the day -- although it was very dark and threatening, it rained ahead of me but never on, me all day.
So for the first time I really rattled along with not a lot of effort! At the middle of the day I was averaging 19.8 kph (but I never made 20 kph average!). I had planned an extra stop along the route but the kms just flowed away with occasional stops for water and brotchen and a few chats along the way. Suddenly I was in Schillig and popped into a Spar for my evening fresh " lebensmittel". I then entered a huge camping -- expensive ( E15.10) for 1 night! No shade at all and rows upon rows of caravans. I am 1 of 2 tents in a desolate remote heath which extends for nearly a kilometre and about 400 metres wide. It is pretty awful!
Apparently the ferry from Wilhelmshaven to Eckwardeshorne is running daily but i have to be there before 1030!!! That means a very early start and I want to be on the road well before 0730!
1815. Tea is nearly ready. Then I shall shower and pack up as much as I can. It has been very hot since about 4 pm and there is no shade at all!
17. Thursday 11 June. Day 16. Enforced rest day!
DD 6.38 kms, TD 631.89 kms
It started raining at about 1:30 am and it stopped at 1530 -- 14 hours of continuous heavy downpour! The wind, until about 0830 was quite frightening and I hadn't guyed up for such severe conditions. I thought the tent would take off with me in it and as soon as there was a bit of light I went out and got drenched and put out every guy I had and rigged up a couple of extra ones too! -- but about 8:30 am the wind eased a bit and I went to sleep until about 1130. So I am staying an extra day --- why does it happen to me when I am on an expensive and unpleasant site!
Then the evening was sort of "reasonable" -- it just drizzled a bit on and off and I headed into the village and found a Bakerie and had a coffee and a super hot "cheesy hammy thingy" along with other refugees from the weather.
Now in bed again early -- the forecast for tomorrow is "iffy" for tomorrow!
18. Friday 12 June. Day 17. Schillig to Dangast
DD 75.6 kms, TD 707.49 kms, Max 31.5kph, TT 6:02, Av 12.5 kph
I was awake at 5 am and was on the road by 0615. No wind but the clouds are looking heavy -- with the odd blue patches. It was my aim to get to Wilhelmshaven before 10 am since the ferry ( as per the 2009 leaflet) was due to leave at 1030.
Through Hormunsiel and down the coast track to Hooksiel where I followed the bike signs and did a complete circle. But I then decided to follow the coastal route all the way to WHN which looked shorter and simple to follow. The wind had picked up again but was firmly behind me so I was making good time until the coastal track was totally blocked by a new port facility being built. I had missed a small "umleitung" notice and had to go back about 2 kilometres. So then I was following these diversion signs as they wiggled and turned -- on other blocked routes and I lost a lot of time but eventually I managed to get onto a road signed to " stadtmitte" and stuck with that -- eventually following the signs for the "Heligoland Quai" where the ferry departed from. I had to keep slowing down for short storms and weather but arrived just after 10 am to find it had left at 0940 hrs ( as a big notice board said!).
NP -- I thought I could have a nice day in WHN and get the 1700 hrs ferry. So I went to buy my ticket only to be told that the evening boat was not going to run because of the severe weather.
So I was faced with going round the big bay -- called "Jadebusen" and meant a lot more kms that day.
So I headed out directly West with the NW wind diagonally in my face. It was a very very hard 5 kms with the wind gusting and threatening to blow me of the dyke track and but I knew that at the end of the 5 kms I was turning South and would have the wind behind me again.. Once round the corner I fairly rattled along but I was still beset with heavy rain showers and thunderstorms. I was lucky at one storm when there was a rest hut just as the rain started and stopped in there and had a belated breakfast. A couple turned up after a few minutes, heading North into the wind. They were just a bit wet! We had a half hour break and a nice chat.
I am now in Stadt Campingplatz at Dangast and I was caught out while setting up by another thunderstorm and got very very wet while hanging on to the tent in the squalling wind! But -- as they say -- "I'm alright now!". I may have a rest day tomorrow if it is nice and then Sunday will be a long trek to get beyond Bremerhaven. I shall leave the NSCR and head direct to the ferry to Bremerhaven!
19 Saturday 13 June. Day 18. Another rest day!
DD 8.76 kms, TD 716.25
Found an ATM (Geld Automat) and also an internet access. I have found that the cyber cafes are a dying breed and wifi access is all over the place -- something else to carry! Taking a rest day cos the weather is reasonable and I have a good 80+ kms to do tomorrow and I hope to finish in Wremertief -- I think the camping there is right on the beach -- so it will be windy! -- tell me something new!
I have done all my washing and had a good wander round Dangast but the weather is very changeable and still very windy but bearable. Got up to date on the internet and had a nice fish tea with a salad for a change!
My neighbours have suddenly increased to a party of about 25 with guitars and electronic drums etc. I suspect that they are going to be noisy tonight!
Yep they are now in full voice singing and strumming. I wouldn't mind but the vocalists s have a range of about one octave and sing through their noses and throat in a typical "country copy" style and it is pretty awful. Not particularly loud just very bad singing. It stopped at midnight!!!!!!
20. Sunday 14 June. Day 19. Dangast to Wremertief.
DD 68.86 kms, TD 785.11 kms, Max 23,4 kph, TT 4:59, Av 13.8 kph
I was up early on a cool morning with light cloud cover. I bought my fresh brötchen and was away by 0800. I diverted from the NSCR as I had decided yesterday and turned of at Sehestedt for Seefeld where I stopped for breakfast. The route was very well signed and to be honest I didn't bother much with my map and just followed the cycle route signs all the way to Nordenham and the ferry with various variations but I never got lost! Just outside Blexen I met a French cycle camper who was trying to get to Dangast and I was able to put him on the right road and gave him the map which I had bought yesterday covering this bit of Germany!
I treated myself to a bockwurst on the ferry and then hit Bremerhaven. It is a big harbour and a lot of it is converted into a tourist attractions and the cycle route gets a bit lost -- well I did anyway! Again the Satnav came in handy and got me through the difficult bit and the route led on through the commercial harbours quite easy to follow -- except for a sudden and torrential downpour where I took shelter in a closed LIDL for about 1/2 an hour. After that the weather improved slowly for the rest of the day. As I was clearing the harbour area I met 2 Fins -- Sarri and Addi and we had a long chat ( in English) before they headed South and I continued North to Wremertief!
A bit of head wind but the worst problem was that while I was wearing my Altura Nevis yellow waterproof I went through a patch of about 5 kms where I was continually hit all over by tiny black flies -- so much so that I dropped my visor. This alters the air flow round my face and always reduces the number of flies I eat!
I hit Wremertief and found this super little campingplatz behind the dyke. Yes there was one on the beach but it was very exposed. There are only a few tent spaces but now I am sitting in the warm evening sun with my own private loo and shower -- ah yes -- I had a bath today. The shower basin was a deep bathlike bowl complete with plug -- fantastic to sit in hot water and scrub my knees clean -- fantastic!
I had lots of help from the lady owner and after my bath I had a walk over the deich to find a small harbour surrounded by various eating/drinking kiosks. One of them was half way up a small slope and was just a hut surrounded by wooden tbles and benches and a lot of people eating. I found that it was run by 3 young ladies who didn't have time to stop. and they clearly produced some very excellent seafood dishes in a tiny cooking space. I had a Weiss Beer and a a typical Deutsches torte with lashings of "Schlag" ( Schlagsahne = whipped cream!). If I hadn't already bought some fresh fish and a couple of huge prawns to cook for my tea I would have eaten there!
But my evening self cook meal was delicious too and was a really nice end to the day.
21. Monday 15 June. Day 20. Wrenertief to Otterndorf
DD 60.67 kms, TD 845.78 kms, Max 28.7 kph, TT 4.28, Av 13.5
I decided to cut across country again so I missed out my planned stop at Cuxhaven Dunen and headed for Ottendorf in a direct a route as possible. To be honest it was good yesteday to get away from cycling along the bottom of a dyke and the route for today took me inland a bit and made another good cycling day. The route I took was :-
Wremertief - Mulsum -Dorum - Midlim on the L129. - Altenwalde on the L135 - junction K35 then East to Altenbruch - Wehldorf - Ottendorf Lake.
It was a nice day with a following wind -- at times my Av was up to 18 kph at times. . The camping is a big site and basically a permanent "mobileheim" site. I also found an ALDI -- trouble is you can't buy 5 potatoes -- just 5 kg! -- but I bought a bottle of Tempranilo for under e2 which went down well.! So I bought some mushroooms and Kohl rabi and a small cheese -- but I forgot batteries for my camera which hasn't worked for days -- which explains the lack of photos on here!
( the camera I carried gave me nothing but trouble and later the pics I took in Berlin were totally useless)
22 Tuesday 16 June. Day 21. Otterndorf to Krautsand
DD 66.08 kms, TD 911.86 kms, Max 27.8 kph, TT 4:26, Av 14.8 kph
I was away before 8 am. Cloudy and I think it might rain -- tell me something new - it seems to have rained a bit nearly every day but my unending memory of the whole trip is Wind, Wind, Wind. I go to bed with my head buzzing after a days cycling with the wind whirling around me head. I am a helmet wearer and one of the huge disadvantages is the noise created, even in normal conditions, by the wind self created by motion or natural wind which can hide all other sounds at times!
1514 hrs. I am in Krautsand Campingplatz and settled. I thought that it might have a local shopping centre in supoort of the camp site -- but nothing at all. I even failed to find a bakerie! So tonight it is either a meal in the restaurant or another pasta, corned beef ( carried it since leaving home!), 1/2 an onion and yesterdays remnant of kohl rabi ( it tastes like cabbage stalks).
After a dull day, but no rain, I followed to L211 to Frieburg and then South, missing Wischhaven
I was even asked directions when passing through Freiburg by a German car, which I could see had a Satnav. -- and my Union flag flapping on the back of my trailer! But I was happy to help! It always gives my in inordinate amount of pleasure to say ( in German of course) "Sorry but I am an Englishman" -- and then speak in fairly fluent Deutsch and answer their question. Hopefully a few people will find out that not all the English are spastic about speaking other languages. I reckon I can survive in all the Western European countries, (having gone up to A level in Latin in my school days) after a few days. Was ever a dead language such a living tool! However i have been told that Polish is fairly impossible!
Now 1727 hrs and I decided to buy a bottle of wine from reception and cobble together a corned beef hash! it was amazingly very good and I made it with whatever I had in my reserves.
23. Wednesday 17 June. Day 22. Krautsand to Hamburg
DD 91.47 kms, TD 1003.33 kms, Max 26.4 kph, TT 7:33, Av 12.2 kph
I woke up to sun and no wind! Amazing! It was warm and after morning ablutions I was away without my jacket on for the first time -- I cycled up to the ferry at Wischaven and as I arrived it had just about finished loading and was full to the brim as I got on at the very back -- which turned out to be the front of the boat after it had turned round to head across the wide tidal Elbe!
I got surrounded by a bus load of Swiss OAP's ( all about my age!) who crowded round my velo and despite my warning about the oil and dirt on my drive chain ( Vorsicht! mein smutsigste fahrad).
The route now headed south towards Hamburg and I stopped for a short time to have breakfast again and got sworn at by a Deutsche frau with 4 dogs -- all loose and out of control. When one dirty hound tried to eat my breakfast I kicked it away! My German is more than good enough to swear back very fluently and point out the notice board which said that all dogs must be on lead on the radweg! --- "It's the same the whole world over".
As usual most of the time I am cycling behind the dyke so I am only getting glimpses of the river!
I am now stopped for a Radler with a plate of Salimi with black bread and a nice salad. I made haste to get past the 2 bridges which stay open ( ie closed to road traffic) most of the time and after 1530 remain open until the next morning! I had a rest after crossing the second bridge and sure enough after a few minutes it opened ( ie closed to road traffic) but there was absolutely no river traffic. It was due to stay open for 1/2 an hour
I was actually travelling in the other direction but I had an urgent need
for a pee!
In the outskirts of Hamburg now and I have stopped for a radler. It is very hot and there are lots and lots of people around and the track gets impossibly narrow at times. So I ran out of water and the fraulein here has kindly filled up all my water bottles with icy water!
Distance so far 49.98 at 13.7 kph.. The last 35 kms were very had work. First a very narrow radweg and hundreds of people walking by the river then I went on until I headed North through the heart of the city. I never got lost but had lots of stops to check the Satnav as to where I was. I had also made a detailed map at home and it proved to be very useful. Of course by now it was the evening rush hour. All the roads have a bike lanes of sorts but it does get a bit hairy at times with the local cyclists vying with strangers like me towing a bloody big trailer!
It has been very warm today but I hear that more rain is forecast for tomorrow. I didn't cook tonight but opened a tin of herringss in a curry sauce and then some wurst and a couple of glasses of wine and a v large schnapps! I admit to being a bit tired -- it was a hot day and the journey through Hamburg was hard work!
24. Thursday 18. Day 23. June. Rest day Hamburg
DD 12.54 kms, TD 1015.87 kms.
1131. I have done my shopping, got some more money from a Geld Automat and I am now enjoying a coffee in downtown Hamburg!
I am not anywhere near the city centre but just an ordinary shopping street "Frohmestrasse" with all the shops that you need. I bought fresh strawberries and scoffed the lot! I also had a nice ice cream!
The weather is back to normal with sunshine and cloud. it rained a lot in the night but I slept through till after 8 am this morning. I shall cycle into the "touristy" centre this afternoon if the weather is better!
1530. It is hot when the sun is out but lots of rain showers and I am quite tired after yesterdays journey. So I am staying tomorrow and have my day in the city. I have just noticed that it is about 400 kms to Berlin from the campsite!
25. Friday 19 June. Day 24 Rest day Hamburg
DD 47.39 kms, TD 1063.26 kms, Max 32.8 kph
Pootled around this morning and then spent a couple of hours in the centre with the weather giving lots of showers. I remembered to buy new batteries for my camera -- and then forgot to take it with me! What a twaddle I am! Anyway when the rain started to tipple I headed back to the camping and cooked tea and the sun came out again
in bed by 2000 hrs!
26. Saturday 20 June. Day 25. Hamburg to Artlenburg
DD 82.08 kms, TD 1145.34 kms, Max 31 kph, TT 6:12, Av 13.2 kph
I woke up at 0500 and decided to get up, showered and shaved. I also recharged everything while it was early. It was very easy going through Hamburg Centrum since it was early and there was hardly any traffic to slow me down at crossings. I had a couple of minor losses of route in the industriall suburbs but the Satnav got me quickly back on track going through and around the maze of harbours and waterways but once I was clear there were no further problems in route finding. However the radweg from Ochsenwerder right to the junction near Lütjenburg was mainly s 2 track path in concrete slabs, narrow and often broken and cracked -- it wasn't nice and reduced my speed s lot and the trailer took quite a rough ride!
I stupidly turned the wrong way to the ferry and did an extra 3 kms to put it right! As the ferry landed it started to rain heavily yet again but by the time we were over it had stopped again -- I stopped too and had a bratwürst and frites mit mayo und zenf! Delicious!
Now stopped at Drennhauser about 2 kms short of Stover Strand where I had planned on camping but I might go on to Artlenburg -- about 20 kms from here since I have a following wind and the rain has stopped again.
2042 hrs. I am in bed in a fairly basic campingplatz at Artlenburg Hafen. The sanitaire is a portacabin but clean and warm. Nowhere to wash pots and pans!
While travelling here in continuing heavy rain showers I caught up was a German guy who was also cycling to Berlin -- but he was overnighting in hotels!!!!!! Having a following wind made the rain bearable and I made good time.
27. Sunday 21 June. Day 26. Artlenburg to Walmsburg.
DD 50.47 kms, TD 1195.81 kms, Av 14.8 kph -- lost the rest!
On the road by 0815 and went to buy bread in the village bakerie and then off on my way -- or so I thought!
I had set up my maps for the next section of travel and knew that I had to pass under a bridge. So off I went and under a bridge which actually took me south along a very straight track and I was humming along until I realised that the sun was in the wrong positoin. I climbed up on to the top of the dyke and went on a bit more but I then realised that I was on a great canal with lots of barges going the same way as me. It cost me about 10 kms round trip to get back on route! The weather came on sunny and warm and I have now stopped in Blekede for a coffee and a radler -- which is well earned.
done 34.2 kms at 15.2 kph so far.
Just as I was leaving 2 Nederlanders arrived on a tandem ( a Dawes) and we chatted and on their recommendation I decided to stop tonight in Walsmburg. They had also started in Berlin and said that the "TentStation" was a bit basic and to watch out for the foxes at night after food!
I set off again and the clouds built up and then it tippled for a nice half hours downpour!! Now in "Mutter Grun" a delightful small campingplatz run by an elderly couple. I am the only one here!
28. Monday 22 June. Day 27. Walmsburg to Dömitz.
DD 50.60 kms, TD 1246.41 kms, Max 29.4 kph. TT 3:47, Av 13.4
No rain! I bought my morning bread and headed for the ferry from New Darchau to Darchau
I think that crossing the river here has taken me into what was "Eastern Germany"/ I got on well following the route ( under the dyke as always) with a largely following wind and no jacket on and it was good after all the rain I had been though for the last few days.. I just pedalled on gently and the kms slipped under my wheels. I stayed mainly on the B195 and was soon in Dömitz and looking for the "Wasser centrum" where I was hoping I could camp that night. I eventually found a big field with a couple of motor homes there and a hut saying it was a campingplatz and that the harbour master would come round in the evening. So i set up and there are now 5 motor homes and a caravan and me!
I could only find an ALDI so I bought some wine and some bits and pieces and opened a tin of Goulash I had been carrying -- with some pasta and a few chillies added it was very good.
29 Tuesday 23 June. Day 28. Dömitz to Abbendorf.
DD 73.39 kms, TD 1319.8 kms, Max 26 kph, TT 5:02, Av 14.5 kph
I didn't get away until 0950 but it was a free night ( no one ever came for money)
I am now in Abbendorf one of my planned stops. It has been a hard day with varying wind direction as I twisted and turned with the river. The route shown on my maps was about 85 kms but I took shortcuts, mainly following the B195 which was virtually traffic free. As I was leaving Dömitz I did a complete circle of about 3 kms but only got a bit lost! I didn't like the cycle route and so stayed on the B195 through Baarz Wootz, Mödlich until the turning to Lenzen and rejoined the dyke route all the way to Cumlosen where I hopped back on to the B195 all the way to Wittenberge Centre. I stopped at the crossroads on the outskirts of Wittenberge and had a dishful of goulash with noodles at a mobile kiosk. It was very good and was doing far more business than the MacDonalds over the road!
I went straight through the middle of Wittenberge which seemed to be a pretty run down sort of town to me. I followed a bevy of ladies on a supported bike tour and they led me on to the dyke track to Hinzdorf and then stayed on the road again to Rühstädt where I had a lovely cold radler and realised that I was covered in dirt and dust from the road and cross winds. I went on and finally arrived at "Dörpkrog am Deich" and I was welcomed with a free beer before being shown round. No charge for the night but there are no showers.
I then treated myself to dinner --- a Fische Platte and a bottle of white wine and enjoyed a chat with a couple from a caravan, over a shared table. Now feeling quite comfy! I hope the wind drops tomorrow!
30. Wednesday 24 June. Day 29. Abbendorf to Ferchesar.
DD 80.94 kms, TD 1400.74, Max 33 kph, TT 6:11, Av 13.1 kph
It didn't drop at all! By the time I was on my way at 0808 the wind was up and a it again after a calm night. Fortunately for most of the day it was a side wind or diagonally from behind, so it wasn't too bad. I left the Elbe and met the Havel
The lock on the short canal which links the river Elbe to the river Havel! Just outside Havelberg
I cycled over 45 kms before I found a bread shop open in Schollene and it was 10 to 12 and closed at 12! I had a coffee and a sticky and 2 cheese brötchen in my bag. I had decided to camp in Steckeldorf and took the direct road on the L96. But when I got there I found that the camping site was in fact looking like a building plot and was closed for the whole season.
I stopped in the market at Rathenow and bought some apples and pears and then managed to find the radweg to Stechow -- through a forest and out of the wind so it was very hot and I took a rest at a rest hut
Then on to Ferchesar where the road was a cobbled mess and very hard on my velo it then deteriorated into a dusty track and i had to follow diversions for ages and the track was like a dust bowl!
The camping is OK and I have now washed socks and pants and me. The wine is being chilled and I am about to sort out my tea! This wind every day is driving me bonkers -- it really makes my head buzz! The sun has been out all day and it was very hot when out of the wind. If it stays in the same direction tomorrow I think I am going to have a day of head winds.
I have just thrown away my cooked dinner. Never ever done that before but there was a peculiar metallic flavour If I get the "trots" I shall know where it came from!
31. Thursday 25 June. Day 30. Ferchesar to Berlin.
DD 85.09 kms, TD 1485.83 kms, Max 33.5 kph, TT 6:35, Av 12.9 kph
I woke up to find cloudy skies but dry. An instant decision and I packed up. I had just hitched up the trailer when it started to drizzle! As I checked out it got a lot heavier and I waited till it abated a bit. Then off through the tracks of yesterday now turning into a mud bath. I got as far as the village of Ferchesar and it was tippling and looked set for the morning. I took shelter in a bus shelter for an hour and the rain seemed to ease a bit. I put on my overtrousers for the first time and about 10am I set of again. There was no problem with my route and it was easy riding but it belted down for most of the morning. I stopped somewhere for a bratwürst in a particularly heavy downpour but carried on to Nauen. While there it stopped raining for a while and I popped into a bank for some cash. I was about half way, of the days journey, to Berlin and I was soaked through and I nearly started to look for a room for the night. But then I decided that since I was wet anyway I might as well go on -- I could only get drier!
I took the L201 to Falkensee and made good time. It was a bit drizzly now and then but the morning downpours had stopped. I stopped at a roadside stall and bought some cherries and apricots and thankfully took off my waterproof over trousers which are horrible -- but they do keep my legs warm! A long straight road through Falkensee took me to the Berlin city border in Spandau.
I was in Berlin!
The sun came out and I passed a cybercafe and did a quick about turn and spent about 1 1/2 hours getting up to date on net -- I cleared over 200 spam mails off my site!
I went on into central Berlin and I was quite confident as to my route to the "tentstation" and made it without problems. As the 2 Nederlanders of several days ago said -- it is a bit basic!
I had pasta and a tinned goulash for supper and a Weiss beer and a schnapps or 2! The foxes are here too! I was talking to with my neighbour ( English / Greek -- talking in German!).and it was quite dark when this fox came right up to my "table" -- I though it was a puppy at first but the pointed ears and muzzle and the bushy tail indentified it. I suspect it was a vixen feeding cubs.
My velo at rest in Berlin
32. Friday 26 June. Day 31. Tourist in Berlin!
DD 47.21 kms TD 1533.04 kms, Max 25.6 kph
Up at my usual early hour and had a shower and washed all my worn clothes before going out to find a suoermarket before heading out for a long and tiring touristy day
I walked my feet off and took a few photos but it was overcast and gloomy all day. I found out later that most of my photos were all out of focus. I just don't know why cos some are OK
Some Berlin sights!
I also checked out the Haupbahnhof which is a huge place and I didn't dare leave my bike on its own even locked up!
I returned to the campingplatz and the Greek guy left to fly home. There were 4 New Zealanders behaving atrociously and were rude and an outright nuisance I was in bed by 9 pm.
33. Saturday 27 June Day 32. Tentstation to Barbara/Mario's
DD 8.37 kms, TD 1541.41 kms
I slept until about midnight last night and then there were 4 girls running half naked around the camp and the NZ's were drunk. The noise, shouting and screaming went on all night until dawn. I got up then. Two families had already left in the middle of the night in total disgust Children were scared and crying during the ruckus and it was a very, very unpleasant night. I was packed up and away by 0630 and had some breakfast and then found my way to Barbara and Mario's flat. I didn't hurry and calmed down from last nights turmoil I called at the Haupbahnhof again hoping it would be less hectic than yesterday but the was no way that I was going to leave my bike and trailer unattended there.
I arrived at 36 Fasanenstrasse at about 11 am having spent some time having coffee and a baguette on a roadside cafe!
I was made very welcome and it really was a very small flat. Barbara was still at work when I arrived but mario eventually let me in --- the door intercom didn't work!
I felt very scruffy indeed and realised later that they were giving up their bed for me! I explained that i had 3 important things to do.
1. Buy my ticket on the Berlin to Rotterdam train that day. once that was done I would feel a lot happier!
2. Buy a new shirt! my one "evening wear" shirt was falling apart, and despite being clean it actually looked very scruffy indeed!
3. I also need to buy a suitable gift for Barbara!
So after a bit of lunch we set off. I had heard lots of loud music for some time and as we got to Kurfurstendamm I found out what was happening. It was the St Christofer day parade. Something like Gay Pride in London but MUCH MUCH MUCH bigger and better. There were hundreds of "floats" -- each one blasting out its own music and the costumes were fantastic. It made a really nice surprise for me and anyone would have enjoyed it. Naturally I hadn't got my camera ( I never do when I need it) but Barbara had and she took lots of photos which now appear here
We lost Mario but managed to buy me a shirt and the train station was excellent and I had my ticket for Tuesday next all the way from Spandau to Rotterdam
34. Sunday 28 June. Day 33. Sailing on the Havel
35. Monday 29 June. Day 34. Round tour of the Havel
DD 85.21 kms, TD 1626.62 kms, Max 33.6 kph, TT , Av 14.8 kph
36. Tuesday 30 June. Day35. Berlin to Rotterdam
DD 16.73 kms, TD 1643.35 kms,
37. Wednesday 1 July. Day 36. Rest day
DD 13.91 kms, TD 1657.26 kms
38 Thursday 2 July. day 37. Rotterdam to Europort.
DD 38. 82 kms, TD 1671.17 kms, Max 30.2 kph TT , Av 12.8 kph
39. Friday 3 July. Day 38. Hull to Home
DD 90.62 kms, TD 1761.79 kms, Max 42 .6 kph, TT , Av 12.2 kph
40 Summary
Total Distance
1761.79 kms = 1101.12 miles
Which is over the whole time, including rest days 28.23 miles/ day / 45.17 kms/day
Including only "travelling days" ( about 29 days) 37.97 miles/day / 60.75 kms/day
This is below my previous tours but the years are beginning to tell and I was very unprepared for this tour. I had hoped to either cycle back or probe into Poland but the indifferent weather and the increased costs made my mind up for me.
However I am pleased to have completed this tour successfully !
